Abu Simbel Temples, Egypt: visitor guide

What to expect at Abu Simbel

Abu Simbel is the most dramatically sited monument in Egypt and one of the most remarkable feats of engineering of the 20th century, two rock-cut temples commissioned by Ramesses II (about 1264 BC) at Abu Simbel on the west bank of the Nile in the extreme south of Egypt (now about 40km from the Sudanese border), saved from submersion under Lake Nasser by the remarkable international engineering project of 1964–1968 that cut both temples into about 1,000 blocks, moved the entire complex 64 metres vertically and 180 metres horizontally up the desert cliff, and reassembled it in an artificial mountain constructed for the purpose.

The relocation project, organised by UNESCO and involving 51 participating nations, was one of the most complex and expensive archaeological rescue operations in history and established the precedent for the global protection of cultural heritage that led directly to the World Heritage Convention of 1972.

Great Temple of Ramesses II

Besides, the Great Temple of Ramesses II is the larger of the two temples, its facade of four colossal seated statues of Ramesses (each 21 metres tall) carved from the living rock of the cliff face is one of the most powerful architectural statements of pharaonic Egypt. Moreover, the statues present Ramesses in the standard pose of divine kingship, crown of Upper Egypt, hands on knees, eyes fixed on the eastern horizon, their scale communicating the pharaoh's claim to divine status with unmistakeable force.

The interior of the temple descends 63 metres into the mountain through a sequence of progressively narrower hypostyle halls, the walls covered in reliefs depicting Ramesses's military victories (particularly the Battle of Kadesh against the Hittites, shown at enormous scale and in remarkable narrative detail) to the inner sanctuary, where four seated statues of the gods Ra-Harakhti, Amun, Ptah and the deified Ramesses himself are arranged in the darkness.

Solar alignment phenomenon

In general, the solar alignment phenomenon at Abu Simbel is the temple's most celebrated feature, twice a year (about February 22 and October 22, dates that may correspond to Ramesses's birthday and coronation) the rising sun shines directly through the temple entrance, down the 63-metre axis of the temple, and illuminates the faces of three of the four sanctuary statues (Ptah, the god of darkness, remains in shadow).

Generally, the phenomenon occurs at 6:22 AM on these dates and lasts about 20 minutes. The precision of the original temple's orientation was preserved to within one day when the temple was relocated (the relocation engineers considered this one of their greatest achievements). Besides, the solar alignment days attract large numbers of visitors and are celebrated by the Egyptian government as annual festivals at the site.

Small Temple of Hathor and Nefertari

Also, the Small Temple of Hathor and Nefertari, 100 metres north of the Great Temple, was built by Ramesses for his principal wife Nefertari, unique in ancient Egyptian history, where it was remarkably unusual for a pharaoh to depict his wife at the same scale as himself. Generally, the four facade statues of Ramesses are flanked by two statues of Nefertari at equal size, a statement of affection and political recognition that makes the Small Temple one of the most significant documents of women's status in ancient Egypt.

The interior reliefs of Nefertari making offerings to Hathor are among the top New Kingdom paintings surviving in Egypt, the colours of the queen's white dress, green mantle and elaborate headdress still vivid after 3,270 years.

Abu Simbel is 280km south of Aswan and most efficiently reached by morning flight from Aswan (about USD 80–100 return, 45 minutes. Flights typically depart Aswan at 8 AM and return at noon), the flight noticeably reduces the physical demands of the visit compared to the alternative 3-hour road journey through the Nubian desert each way. The road convoy from Aswan (tourist buses travel in an organized convoy departing Aswan at 4 AM, arriving at 7 AM) is the budget alternative at about EGP 250–400 per person including transport and guide. Entry to both temples is about EGP 360. The temples are open daily from 5 AM to 6 PM.

Making the most of it

An overnight stay at Abu Simbel (the Seti Abu Simbel Lake Hotel or the Nefertari Hotel both have lake views) allows visiting the temples at the top times, at sunrise (the earliest morning light on the facade before the tour groups arrive) and at the Sound and Light Show in the evening (about EGP 350, three performances nightly in Arabic, English and French). The lake, Lake Nasser, the world's largest artificial reservoir created by the Aswan High Dam, provides the backdrop for both the temples and the hotel, and a sunset cruise on the lake in a local felucca is available through the hotels.