Hunza Valley: visitor guide

What to expect at Hunza

Hunza Valley is perhaps the most beautiful inhabited valley on earth, a 100km long green corridor carved between the Karakoram, Hindukush and Himalayan mountain ranges at altitudes between 2,400 and 3,100 metres, overlooked by peaks that include Rakaposhi (7,788m, 'Mother of Mist' in the local Burushaski language), Ultar Sar (7,388m), Bojahagur Duanasir II (7,329m) and Diran (7,266m), with the ancient Silk Road, the trade route linking China to Central Asia and ultimately to Rome, threading through the valley floor for over 2,000 years.

Besides, the combination of striking mountain scenery, a temperate fruit-growing microclimate, a unique culture and language (Burushaski, spoken nowhere else on earth), and a recently installed road access via the Karakoram Highway makes Hunza one of the most remarkable destinations in the world.

In addition, the valley's apricot orchards are its defining visual signature at certain times of year. In spring (late March to mid-April), the apricot trees bloom simultaneously in a white flower display that covers the valley terraces and lower slopes in a spectacle that has attracted travellers since the accounts of 19th-century British explorers first brought Hunza to outside attention. In autumn (September to early October), the same trees and the poplar forests turn gold and orange in an equally spectacular foliage display before the valley enters its long mountain winter.

Practical notes

The apricots themselves, sun-dried on the rooftops in July and August, eaten fresh from the tree in June, are among the finest in the world, the specific combination of altitude, sunlight and the mineral composition of the glacier meltwater irrigation producing a flavour that is impossible to replicate at lower elevations.

Baltit Fort

Baltit Fort, the ancient capital of the Hunza state perched on a rocky outcrop above the village of Karimabad, dates from at least the 8th century in its original form, with the current structure built and rebuilt over the following twelve centuries. In addition, the fort served as the residence of the Mirs (rulers) of Hunza for over 700 years. The last Mir vacated it in 1945 after the completion of the new Altit Fort below.

Also, the Aga Khan Trust for Culture undertook a major restoration of Baltit Fort in the 1990s. Also, the building is now one of the finest examples of restored vernacular Central Asian mountain architecture accessible to visitors in Pakistan. Entry (about PKR 200–300) includes access to the fort's multiple floors, its ceremonial rooms, the view terrace overlooking the valley and a small museum of Hunza royal history.

The Karakoram Highway (KKH), the road that made Hunza accessible to non-military travellers, is itself one of the engineering achievements of the 20th century, a two-lane mountain road connecting Islamabad to the Chinese border at Khunjerab Pass (4,693m, the world's highest paved international border crossing), completed in 1978 after 20 years of construction by Pakistani and Chinese engineers working in some of the most technically challenging terrain on earth.

Making the most of it

The drive from Islamabad to Karimabad (the main town of Hunza) takes about 18–22 hours in good conditions, an experience that is for many travellers as memorable as the destination itself, the scenery transitioning from the Indus plains through the Kaghan Valley to the increasingly dramatic Karakoram gorges as the road gains altitude toward Hunza.

Eagle's Nest viewpoint

Also, the Eagle's Nest viewpoint, at 3,200m above Karimabad, accessible by jeep or a 2-hour hike from the town, provides the most comprehensive panoramic view of Hunza available from any accessible point, the full length of the valley visible, Rakaposhi dominating the southern skyline, the Hunza River threading the valley floor 800m below, and on clear days the distant glaciers of the Hispar and Batura icefields visible to the north and west. At sunrise, when the high peaks catch the first light and the valley below remains in blue shadow, Eagle's Nest provides one of the finest mountain panoramas accessible anywhere in the Karakoram.

The best time to visit Hunza is either spring (late March to mid-April for the apricot blossom) or autumn (mid-September to mid-October for the foliage and clearest mountain views). Summer (June–August) is the primary trekking and climbing season, the passes are open, the weather is stable and the high-altitude routes are accessible. However, the valley itself is hot (25–30°C in Karimabad) and the blossom season has passed. Winter (November–February) brings snow to the valley floor, closes the Khunjerab Pass and noticeably reduces accommodation availability. However, gives the finest photography of snow-covered peaks and the most intimate experience of valley life before the tourist season begins.