Pamukkale and Hierapolis: visitor guide

What to expect at Pamukkale

Pamukkale, 'Cotton Castle' in Turkish, is one of Turkey's most distinctive natural sites: a hillside of brilliant white calcium carbonate terraces formed over millennia by the mineral-rich thermal spring water that flows at 35°C from the plateau above, depositing calcium carbonate as it cools and cascades down the white terraces, filling a series of shallow natural pools. The terraces rise about 160 metres above the surrounding plain, their white surface visible from many kilometres away, and the thermal pools, turquoise against the white calcium, are open for bathing (without footwear) on designated sections of the terrace.

Also, the ancient city of Hierapolis (UNESCO World Heritage Site with Pamukkale) spreads across the plateau above the travertines. Moreover, the necropolis at the northern edge is the largest ancient Roman cemetery in Anatolia, hundreds of sarcophagi of varying elaborateness line the road for 2km, their inscriptions recording the names, professions and social positions of Hierapolis's ancient citizens across three centuries of Roman rule. Besides, the theatre, one of the best-preserved in Asia Minor, seats about 15,000 spectators and retains much of its stage building and decorative sculpted frieze. Besides, the Plutonium, a cave from which poisonous carbon dioxide gases emerged, where ancient priests demonstrated their apparent immunity to death, is one of the most atmospheric archaeological sites in Turkey.

Antique Pool

Besides, the Antique Pool (Kleopatra's Pool, entry about TRY 200) is a unique experience: a thermal pool of 36°C spring water in which ancient columns and capitals, toppled by earthquakes, lie on the sandy bottom. Swimming among first-century AD Roman marble in warm carbonated mineral water is a combination available nowhere else in the world. The pool has a visitor limit, book entry in advance during peak season.

Hierapolis Archaeology Museum

Besides, the Hierapolis Archaeology Museum, housed in the restored Roman baths adjacent to the theatre (included in the site entry), contains the finest collection of sculptural reliefs from the Hierapolis theatre, sarcophagus carvings of rare quality, and artefacts documenting the city's daily life across seven centuries. Also, the carved friezes from the theatre stage building are among the best Roman-era sculptural works accessible to visitors in Turkey outside of the Istanbul Archaeological Museum.

The best time to visit Pamukkale is early morning (before 9 AM when coach tours arrive from Kuşadası and Bodrum) or late afternoon (after 4 PM). Walking the travertines requires bare feet, shoes must be removed at the entrance. The white calcium surface is slippery in places and the sun reflection intense at midday. Hat and sun protection are essential. Pamukkale village at the base of the travertines makes a good overnight base, with thermal spa hotels allowing guests to bathe in geothermally heated pools.

The site is 20km north of Denizli, accessible by direct bus from Denizli otogar. This is served by buses from Istanbul, Izmir and Ankara. The combination of the travertine bathing, the Hierapolis ruins and the Antique Pool gives a remarkably complete experience of both the natural and cultural significance of this rare site.

Roman baths complex

Also, the Roman baths complex at Hierapolis (now the archaeology museum) gives the clearest architectural picture of Roman bathing culture outside Italy, the frigidarium (cold room), tepidarium (warm room) and caldarium (hot room) sequence is legible in the preserved ruins, and the museum's collection of sarcophagus reliefs and theatrical frieze sculptures is one of the best assemblies of Roman decorative sculpture in western Turkey. Moreover, the road from the northern gate of Hierapolis to the theatre (about 1km) passes the nymphaeum (monumental fountain), the colonnade of the main street and the best-preserved section of the Roman city walls.

In fact, the Frontinus Gate at the northern entrance of the ancient city, flanked by towers and named for the Roman proconsul Sextus Julius Frontinus who enlarged it in 84 AD, is the finest surviving Roman gateway in the Pamukkale area and rewards the 20-minute walk north from the travertines. Allow a full day to combine the travertine bathing, the Antique Pool swim, the museum and a proper walk through the Hierapolis ruins, attempting these in a 3-hour coach tour visit noticeably underserves what the site offers.