Khunjerab Pass: visitor guide

What to expect at Khunjerab

The Khunjerab Pass (4,693m) is the highest paved international border crossing in the world, the point where the Karakoram Highway crosses from Pakistan into China (Xinjiang province) at an altitude where the air contains about 46% less oxygen than at sea level and where the surrounding landscape is an entirely glaciated, treeless high plateau of rock, snow and wind. Moreover, the name derives from the Wakhi words for 'valley of blood', likely referring to the historically treacherous conditions for caravans on this ancient Silk Road crossing.

Besides, the pass is the highest point of the Karakoram Highway (KKH), the remarkable road completed in 1978 after 20 years of construction by Chinese and Pakistani engineers that follows the historic trade route connecting China and the Indian subcontinent through the Karakoram range.

Karakoram Highway

The Karakoram Highway approach to the pass from the Pakistan side is a journey of increasing altitude and decreasing vegetation: from the lush Hunza Valley at 2,400m, the road ascends through the Gojal region's increasingly arid landscapes, passing the turquoise waters of Attabad Lake, the Passu Cones, the high-altitude village of Sost (the last Pakistani town, with the border checkpoint and immigration facilities) and the Khunjerab National Park boundary before entering the completely barren plateau of the pass zone above 4,200m. In addition, the transition from the valley to the treeless, snowbound plateau environment takes about 2 hours from Sost and represents one of the most dramatic altitude and landscape transitions on any road in the world.

Khunjerab National Park

The Khunjerab National Park (established 1975, entry fee included in the KKH permit) protects the high-altitude ecosystem of the pass region, a landscape of particular conservation significance for the Marco Polo sheep (Ovis ammon polii, the largest sheep in the world, the males carrying remarkable spiral horns of up to 190cm) whose population in the Khunjerab and the adjacent Chinese side of the pass has recovered noticeably since the park's establishment.

The best time to see Marco Polo sheep is in the early morning or late afternoon when they graze on the high slopes visible from the road, patient observers can often count herds of 20–50 animals on the hillsides above the highway in the peak summer season (July–August). The park also supports ibex, snow leopard (rarely seen), brown bear, wolves and golden eagles.

Border experience

The border experience at Khunjerab Pass is unlike any other land border on earth, the Pakistan immigration office at Sost (35km from the pass) and the Chinese immigration at Tashkurgan (130km inside China) are where the formalities occur. Generally, the physical pass marker is simply a gate and a collection of flags and signboards at the border line at 4,693m, surrounded by snow-covered mountains on all sides with no other infrastructure visible. Visitors who are not crossing into China can proceed from Sost to the border gate with a valid passport and the Khunjerab National Park entry permit (about PKR 800 per vehicle), spending as much time as they wish at the border before returning.

Full Silk Road experience

The full Silk Road experience of entering China and continuing to Kashgar (about 400km from the border via Tashkurgan) requires a valid Chinese visa obtained before arrival in Pakistan and onward transport arranged in advance, shared jeeps and public buses run from the border to Tashkurgan (90km, about 2 hours) from where the Karakoram Highway continues to Kashgar. In fact, the border between Pakistan and China is open for tourists from about May 1 to October 31, depending on weather conditions at the pass. Also, is subject to occasional closure for political or security reasons, check current status with the Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation before planning a crossing.

Khunjerab Pass is best visited as a day trip from Gulmit or Passu (about 60–70km below the pass, accessible in about 2 hours on the KKH), allowing the altitude gain to be gradual and the pass visit to be made before descending to sleep at lower altitude. The NATCO public bus service from Gilgit to Sost passes through the pass area and is the cheapest transport option (about PKR 500–800 from Gilgit to Sost) Private jeeps can be hired from Karimabad or Sost for the pass day trip at about PKR 5,000–8,000 per vehicle.